XK150 T5 gearbox preparation

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Capscrews used to hold T5 case to adapter plate

The four 1/2" UNC x 7/8" capscrews in the kit assembly were changed out for four 1/2" UNC x 1" capscrews to maximise the "grip" within the four tapped holes in aluminium adapter plate. The 1" capscrews ends were minimally ground flat ensure the longer screws did not bottom out against the bell housing.

Maybe this was overkill, but the use of just four 1/2" UNC capscrews screwed into 10.3mm of aluminium alloy plate to take a cantilevered load (albeit lighter than the Moss box and overdrive) versus the eight 7/16" BSF bolts used to attach the bell-housing to the Moss gearbox front face over a greater area did not seem right.

Remember also that a kit sourced direct from USA uses a 16mm (5/8") thick plate - 60% thicker, 60% stronger bolt arrangement.

My T5 hasn't parted from the adapter plate so far!

capscrew

Kit assembly as received.

Typical of four 1/2" UNC capscrews
used to secure the T5 case to the 10.3mm adapter plate.

Centralising ring

While replacing the capscrews, give the steel centralising ring a generous coating of grease to prevent rust deposits during service.
centralising ring

Flanged output shaft

Well in advance, to allow paint to dry, remove the T5 rear sliding output flanged shaft, clean with solvent, then paint the non-contact surfaces with black paint.

 

T5 lugs removal

Cut off protruding lugs from the T5 case as shown in the photo. These lugs can hit the transmission cover when the car is in use, even if not when idling in the garage.

The longitudinal lug with three holes, and the two large lugs (marked X), need be removed only if you wish to have the capability to later remove the T5 from the car without disturbing the engine - see later.

lugs-cut
   

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